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8:56 am
March 27, 2011


ron_sue

Soddy Daisy Tennessee

Member

posts 109

one of the draws to this camper was its low profile, however now i see there is a cost.  the transition from street to our driveway is a geometric oddity  that causes either drag bar drag, tongue drag or both when backing in or pulling. this is not bad however annoying.  i am really not interested in "flipping the axle" because i don't like the look, so i have been wondering if there were other options short of using boards on the street.  has anyone experimented with air bags or ? to give a little on demand clearance? another thought would be a taller tire, but i am not sure if they would fit the wheel wells.  ie. 14″ wheel?  thanks.

2011 14RB /2006 dodge dakota 4×4 (giddy up 4.7l v8) (whoa prodigy p2) Everybody needs beauty as well as bread, places to play in and pray in, where nature may heal and give strength to body and soul. John Muir

9:39 am
March 27, 2011


DougB

Charlotte, NC

Member

posts 31

My driveway drops down from the street and then transitions to flat so at that point the rear bumper skidbars drag.  Because of this forum I expected it to be a problem so I asked about what I could do about it during the delivery walk through.  The technician suggested rollers that mount onto the skid bar and specifically these from Paktron: http://www.pakindustries.com/c…..ass30.html (#10-2201).

I installed them myself and have pulled the trailer in and out several times and so far so good.  It beats dragging on the skids.  There is one catch in that the "V" of the skid is too narrow for the "axle" to mount at the bottom as shown.  My solution was to let it sit on the side and bolt on a small piece of angle iron to keep it in place.  Other than that it is a very simple installation and low cost.

At some point after the warranty is out I may try the axle flip but so far this has worked for me.  I also replaced the jack mainly because the new one had the crank on top which gives me more clearance from the tire on the back of my Rav but also cranks up about 1″ higher so a littler more clearance there as well.

2010 16BH; RAV4 V6

12:02 pm
March 27, 2011


Mike Magee

near Tulsa OK

Member

posts 204

The roller suggestion is a good one.  Not enough room for 14″ wheels, they would rub on the wheel wells when you hit bumps. 

If your jack is hitting, you can replace it with a swing-away jack that mounts to the side of the tongue and doesn't hang down at all when swung sideways.  Harbor Freight sells them for $25.  The added advantage: once the jack is swung down for use, it takes very little cranking because the wheel almost (or already) is on the ground.

2008 Toyota Highlander – 2011 Escape E14RB

2:09 pm
March 27, 2011


wrenchist

Guest

I mounted these wheels to the vee skids on the rear bumper. http://www.adventurerv.net/kwi…..-4872.html I purchased a heavy duty 4″ wheel from Northern Tool to mount to my ball mount.

7:06 pm
March 27, 2011


ron_sue

Soddy Daisy Tennessee

Member

posts 109

wow, thanks folks.  when i was a kid, i had wheelie bars on my bike, now that  i am approaching 55, it looks like its time for a new setLaugh  I will definitely order a set of the little wheels tonight.  we were thinking about numbering the scrape marks on the driveway and associating them with our trips out but that kind of impacts the resale value of the house…

2011 14RB /2006 dodge dakota 4×4 (giddy up 4.7l v8) (whoa prodigy p2) Everybody needs beauty as well as bread, places to play in and pray in, where nature may heal and give strength to body and soul. John Muir

8:13 pm
March 27, 2011


sandersmr

Texas

Member

posts 338

After I get back from my next trip, we are going to seriously look into the axle flip.  In addition to the driveway, I have also had dragging in one campground and numerous gas station entrances.  I don't want to do the flip before the trip because I'm sure that there will be some differences in handling.

2010 16BH towed by 2002 F-150 Super Crew 4.6L V8

9:04 pm
March 29, 2011


wrenchist

Guest

This is my remedy for scraping at the hitch.

8:02 am
March 30, 2011


sandersmr

Texas

Member

posts 338

I don't have any problems with the hitch scraping – it's that darn tongue jack.

2010 16BH towed by 2002 F-150 Super Crew 4.6L V8

8:19 am
March 30, 2011


pfidahospud

Post Falls, Idaho

Member

posts 107

Post edited 5:42 pm – March 30, 2011 by pfidahospud


Interesting thread here.  Before purchasing my 14RB, I had basically come to the conclusion that I'd also be doing the spring-over-axle conversion — I had the parts kit picked out and everything.  However, after using the trailer a few times, I haven't had a single scrape; either at the back V-skids or at the jack.  I did make sure I have the ball set to a height that makes the trailer level when traveling, but what's the difference here between scrape versus no scrape?  I have gone successfully over speed bumps (slowly) and I also have a driveway that goes up over a curb. 

wrenchist – your mods are awesome!  I wish I had half the welding/shop skills you have!  I am still scratching my head over why you'd have clearance issues even with a weight distributing hitch.  Maybe the minivan just has a really low receiver?  But I thought my RAV had a low receiver (relatively) as well…

Happy camping!

Stephen

Tow-er: 2010 RAV4 3.5L 269 hp V6 with Tow Pkg ~ Tow-ee: 2011 Sportsmen Classic 14RB ~ Director: The wife

10:32 am
March 30, 2011


wrenchist

Guest

   I am still scratching my head over why you'd have clearance issues even with a weight distributing hitch.  Maybe the minivan just has a really low receiver?  But I though my RAV had a low receiver (relatively) as well…

Happy camping!

Stephen


I have a much longer wheel base than you as well as sitting close to the ground.  I think those things contribute to my scrapping your set up not scrapping. I too like the lower look of my set up and do not plan to flip my axle.


Thanks for the compliment Stephan. A close look at my welds and a pro may scoff. I turn up the heat and make sure there is plenty of penitration. I learned by just doing it with tips from welders. Inexpensive welders can be had via craigs list. Get one and some scrap metal and with a bit of practice you could do it. Anything that may be a safety issue I have my professional welder buddy weld for me.

10:33 pm
April 9, 2011


Winterpegger

Winnipeg, Manitoba

Member

posts 18

wrenchist said:

   I am still scratching my head over why you'd have clearance issues even with a weight distributing hitch.  Maybe the minivan just has a really low receiver?  But I though my RAV had a low receiver (relatively) as well…

Happy camping!

Stephen


I have a much longer wheel base than you as well as sitting close to the ground.  I think those things contribute to my scrapping your set up not scrapping. I too like the lower look of my set up and do not plan to flip my axle.


Thanks for the compliment Stephan. A close look at my welds and a pro may scoff. I turn up the heat and make sure there is plenty of penitration. I learned by just doing it with tips from welders. Inexpensive welders can be had via craigs list. Get one and some scrap metal and with a bit of practice you could do it. Anything that may be a safety issue I have my professional welder buddy weld for me.


I am looking at installing two max-air shocks to my SV6 Montana to get a few more inches of clearance .I have torsion bars that scrape some times. They can give about 8 or 10 nches and can be inflated with a hand pump or 12V compressor.

8:01 am
April 10, 2011


sandersmr

Texas

Member

posts 338

My trailer rides level, but I have a 3.25″ drop on my hitch ball to get it to ride level.  I need to measure how much clearance I actually do have from low points in my trailer – tongue jack plate when fully retracted, holding tank discharge and skid points on rear frame.  I alos want to see if I can remove one link from each of my chains, we have dragging issues with those as well.

2010 16BH towed by 2002 F-150 Super Crew 4.6L V8

8:33 am
April 10, 2011


pfidahospud

Post Falls, Idaho

Member

posts 107

sandersmr said: I also want to see if I can remove one link from each of my chains, we have dragging issues with those as well.


Just a thought/suggestion about the dragging safety chains…  Seems obvious, but I wouldn't have thought of it myself.  I had the same issue with my trailer when I initially bought it.  The dealer's mechanic just twisted the chains a bit to increase the tension.  He also put the emergency brake activator line through the safety chain to prevent it from dragging, but I have since take it out of the safety chain.  I was concerned the emergency brake might not activate if it was restrained by the chain (hope that make sense).  I wrapped it around the receiver so it would be appropriately tighter.

Happy camping!

Stephen

Tow-er: 2010 RAV4 3.5L 269 hp V6 with Tow Pkg ~ Tow-ee: 2011 Sportsmen Classic 14RB ~ Director: The wife

8:37 am
April 10, 2011


wrenchist

Guest

Post edited 3:38 pm – April 10, 2011 by wrenchist


Winterpegger said:

I am looking at installing two max-air shocks to my SV6 Montana to get a few more inches of clearance .I have torsion bars that scrape some times. They can give about 8 or 10 nches and can be inflated with a hand pump or 12V compressor.


The suspension on your montana is probably similar to mine. I ride level, trailer and tow vehicle. The trailer has a nose down and the tow vehicle has a rear end down attitude before cranking up the load leveler bar which brings up the trailer nose and tow vehicle rear making them level. If your trailer is currently level and the tow vehicle rear down try bringing the trailer nose down then adding more tension to the leveling bar(s).  If you use air shocks I would only put enough air in to make the tow vehicle level, not to jack the rear end up 10 inches to keep the torsion bar from dragging.  I added the wheel to my hitch to stop the scraping because it bugged me not because it was damaging my setup.

8:43 am
April 10, 2011


wrenchist

Guest

  I alos want to see if I can remove one link from each of my chains, we have dragging issues with those as well.


I used a ball bungee wrapped around my hitch to hold my chains up. I may remove a link or two.

3:59 pm
April 10, 2011


Winterpegger

Winnipeg, Manitoba

Member

posts 18

wrenchist said:

Winterpegger said:

I am looking at installing two max-air shocks to my SV6 Montana to get a few more inches of clearance .I have torsion bars that scrape some times. They can give about 8 or 10 nches and can be inflated with a hand pump or 12V compressor.


The suspension on your montana is probably similar to mine. I ride level, trailer and tow vehicle. The trailer has a nose down and the tow vehicle has a rear end down attitude before cranking up the load leveler bar which brings up the trailer nose and tow vehicle rear making them level. If your trailer is currently level and the tow vehicle rear down try bringing the trailer nose down then adding more tension to the leveling bar(s).  If you use air shocks I would only put enough air in to make the tow vehicle level, not to jack the rear end up 10 inches to keep the torsion bar from dragging.  I added the wheel to my hitch to stop the scraping because it bugged me not because it was damaging my setup.


About 3 to 4″ would do it for me.

6:27 pm
April 10, 2011


wrenchist

Guest


About 3 to 4″ would do it for me.


Air shocks should work fine. It may be a bit difficult with a hand pump if max pressure is required to get things level. Another consideration is whether or not your vehicle uses a variable load sensing device that adds more brake bias to the rear with a load. Air shocks would fool the system and possibly not apply the rear braking it should. I looked on AllData and it appears your vehicle does not have that device. (I checked for a 2007 model year).

7:48 am
April 12, 2011


Winterpegger

Winnipeg, Manitoba

Member

posts 18

http://www.monroe.com/products…..-absorbers

Only my torsion bars on the hitch scrape when on uneven surface.Need a couple of inches.

2006 Montana -springs and shocks probably due for replacement anyway. And YES they can be easily inflated according to their website.

8:45 am
April 12, 2011


wrenchist

Guest

Winterpegger said: 

and can be inflated with a hand pump

 And YES they can be easily inflated according to their website.


I agree that they are easily inflated. I suggested a hand pump might be difficult @ 150 psi.

8:06 pm
June 3, 2011


ron_sue

Soddy Daisy Tennessee

Member

posts 109

Post edited 3:10 am – June 4, 2011 by ron_sue


thanks all, i decided to go with the adventure rv wheels.  i still drag the tongue a little going out of the driveway but the back end glides across nicely. it looks like the little wheels get a little wear when they touch but they should last for quite a while.

2011 14RB /2006 dodge dakota 4×4 (giddy up 4.7l v8) (whoa prodigy p2) Everybody needs beauty as well as bread, places to play in and pray in, where nature may heal and give strength to body and soul. John Muir

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