User | Post |
5:51 pm March 26, 2011
| wrenchist
| | | |
| Guest
| |
|
|
I used an angle grinder to shape a 3/8 drive socket to fit on the crank handle then welded it on. A wet rag wraped aound the shaft protected the nylon bushing. I cut slots in a 5/8 deep socket to use on the stabilizers. Like others I could not post a photo directly but it can be seen here. http://thelegoes.shutterfly.com
|
|
8:22 pm March 26, 2011
| mbanda
| | ARKANSAS | |
| Member | posts 121 |
|
|
I made my own a few years back. He will be 8 this year & loves to put down the stabilizers & tongue jack.
|
|
8:34 pm March 26, 2011
| wrenchist
| | | |
| Guest
| |
|
|
My twins are 4 1/2, they just get in my way.
|
|
9:57 pm March 26, 2011
| Mike Magee
| | near Tulsa OK | |
| Member | posts 204 |
|
|
wrenchist said:
I used an angle grinder to shape a 3/8 drive socket to fit on the crank handle then welded it on. A wet rag wraped aound the shaft protected the nylon bushing. I cut slots in a 5/8 deep socket to use on the stabilizers. Like others I could not post a photo directly but it can be seen here. http://thelegoes.shutterfly.com
I imagined the original handle being removed, but you welded onto it. So when you turn on your drill, doesn't that long handle zing around really fast? I'm wondering if it could hit you in the knuckles or something.
|
2008 Toyota Highlander – 2011 Escape E14RB
|
|
10:09 pm March 26, 2011
| wrenchist
| | | |
| Guest
| |
|
|
One does need to be careful but the everthing does clear the hand and knuckles. I operate the drill facing the trailer. I wanted to be able to use the crank incase of drill / drill battery failure. I contemplated cutting the handle off and welding a male 3/8 drive onto the cut off crank end and stowing until needed.
|
|
10:37 pm March 26, 2011
| smilinjohn
| | Minnesota Prairie | |
| Moderator
| posts 380 |
|
|
Clever idea.
John
|
2010 Sportsmen Classic 14RK; 2005 Ford F-150, 5.4L V8; "…..it is always advisable to perceive clearly our ignorance." Charles Darwin
|
|