OK, here is the low down on installing a shower enclosure in the KZ Sportsmen Classic. At the time of this posting, I'm in to it for less than $100.00
First you will need:
5 Piece Shower Enclosure 30″x50″x57″ comes with 3 plain wall panels and 2 corner panels with shelves
4 tubes of Liquid Nails Tub and Shower Surround
A wide putty knife 4″-6″
A good pair of scissors
A Strait Edge atleast 60″ Long
A square
Tracing paper
Pencils
Tape measure
First unpack the enclosures, decide which one of the 2 corner pieces to keep, I kept the one with the short side on the left, shelves on the right. This will be piece #1 Do a test fit in the shower to see where it will fit. DO NOT TRIM YET If it doesn't fit. If it doesn't fit just right, don't worry. Set it in a safe place.
Remove all the shower tub trim, the curtain rod, the shower hose and mounting hardware from the wall and faucet, and the faucet knobs (pop the centers out and unscrew the phillips head screws holding the knobs in place) put in a safe place. Also remove all the putty tape from under the aluminum trim and the tub.
Using the tracing paper, cut out templates of the corners that aren't square. Mine were the top right corner where the wall curved into the ceiling, the corners around the faucet (no need to remove it, just cut out and place the panel around it)
Measure the ceiling height of the top lip edge of the tub to the ceiling. Don't be afraid to go over the trim at the top or sides, it will get covered with caulking later.
Measure the width of the 2 end panels, and the height of the one panel that will fit on the left wall where the faucet goes. Trim these panels to size. The one panel on the right will not need to be trimmed to height because it will follow the curvature of the rear wall. Posibly you may have to cut out a small hole about 1″ in diameter in this rear panel for the shower curtain rod to fit back in place.
Trim all the rest of the pieces for height, and test fit the height so that where the tub ends, the enclosure sits flush on top of the extruded upward lip and sits flush with the ceiling. On the wall with the curve, copy the tracing to the plastic panel, trim and test. A gap of 1/8″ or less is preferred, but any gap of less than 1/4″ can be sealed properly and impurfections in trimming can be hidden.
Locate where the faucet will be on the front panel, trim out the opening and test fit several times. If possible oversize the opening 1/8″ to fit around the faucet. When installing, flex the panel to fit over the shower pull knob, then flex it down to go around the shower hose outlet on the faucet.
Important is to test fit everything several times before installing.
Once you feel good about the fit, load a caulking gun with a tube of Liquid Nails Tub and Surround. Spread a good ammount on the wall, spread smooth with the putty knife. It will clean up with a paper towel while moist, don't worry about it leaking out around the edges. Get 100% coverage of the wall space where the panel will go. Install the panels….
Note there is a pattern to install the panels, first is the panel that was trimmed to fit the radius of the roof, snug up to the rear corner of the shower enclosure, then the right panel which follows the curves of the trailer, then the left side panel over the faucet, and finally the corner piece with the shelves.
Liquid Nails Tub and Shower needs to be spread evenly to prevent signs of "burn thru" where you can see the adhesive points in the wall. It doesn't actually burn thru, but any air spaces behind can be a spot that may be visible if the panel isn't tight to the wall, picture a tent with the poles inside the tent, you can see where they are but they aren't exposed. Also the adhesive works quick to hold it up, about 30 seconds and it is on pretty much permanent. You also have a 10 minute window from adhesive to install, so work one panel at a time, put up enough adhesive to cover one panel at a time, pencil marks to show the edge of the panels work great to keep the adhesive "in the lines"
After installing the walls, caulk the seams, reinstall the aluminum trim with either more putty tape and caulking or just caulking, and install the shower curtain and everything else.
Don't be afraid to caulk the screws by putting a bead of caulk on the threads and in the hole of the extrusion. Water likes anywhere that it can find a path, and a good coating of caulking will prevent the water from entering.
Extra trim may be needed, depends on what you prefer.
Hopefully this will help out with those wondering how to do it, or answer questions while installing it.
I didn't remove the faucet, mainly because I foolow the philosophy "if it's not broke, don't mess with it" I've seen more leaks created by removing plumbing stuff and reinstalling the same parts, just the second time you just can't get the fitting tight enough, seated right, or the seal just won't work right the second time around. I'll save headaches by working around it rather than remove it, only to create a bigger problem later. Remember:
WATER IS THE ENEMY OF ALL RVs, KEEP IT OUT AND KEEP IT DRY
I did this on my last truck camper, a 1989 Sunline that I sold and is still in use today, 21 years later and still bone dry inside.
Good luck
Matt