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6:38 pm
August 30, 2011
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bojewy
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| Member | posts 27 |
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8:03 pm
August 30, 2011
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wrenchist
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2:26 pm
August 31, 2011
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Shomeyrwit
| | South East Texas | |
| Member | posts 55 |
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how did you go about getting the construction print?
and for some reason I cant see the pics, by raceway do you mean cable hider ?
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7:15 am
September 1, 2011
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bojewy
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Shomeyrwit said:
how did you go about getting the construction print?
and for some reason I cant see the pics, by raceway do you mean cable hider ?
I contacted KZ customer service. I was glad I did, as I assumed there was a sheet of some kind of material underneath the aluminum skin of the roof. There is not.
The raceway is the "cable hider".
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9:35 am
September 1, 2011
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Shomeyrwit
| | South East Texas | |
| Member | posts 55 |
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Now the pics work,, is a nice install,, what year is your trailer?
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3:16 pm
September 1, 2011
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bojewy
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| Member | posts 27 |
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Shomeyrwit said:
Now the pics work,, is a nice install,, what year is your trailer?
2010
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4:34 pm
September 1, 2011
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Suzy-Q
| | Oklahoma | |
| Member | posts 54 |
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How did you fasten the panel to the roof? Did you penetrate the sheet metal?
John
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6:42 am
September 2, 2011
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bojewy
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| Member | posts 27 |
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Suzy-Q said:
How did you fasten the panel to the roof? Did you penetrate the sheet metal?
John
The panel comes with 4 Z brackets. If memory serves me, the screws are about 2″ long. Due to the configuration of the roof studs, I was only able to penetrate into 3 wooden points. Due to this, I also used an industrial aluminum adhesive. I applied this to all 4 points as well. Covered all penetration areas with Dicor. Have traveled on Interstates (65mph) and boondocking into areas where the road gets the trailer rocking back and forth. No issues, as the panel is as secure now, as it was on the initial installation. I have a copy of the roof construction, but not on this computer. If you would like, I can post it later this evening.
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9:08 pm
September 7, 2011
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Alm
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Post edited 4:59 am – September 8, 2011 by Alm
bojewy said:
…I assumed there was a sheet of some kind of material underneath the aluminum skin of the roof. There is not.
Kind of quick introduction. First post, reading a lot, narrowing choice down. Sportsmen Classic is what I'm pondering now. Might go for something else yet, but Classic seems to be the only line with aluminum roof on long units 22 ft. Everybody else now has rubber roof with lifespan of 10 years, then roof is no more. At the same time have been scratching last of my hairs about solar panel.
So pardon me going straight for cojones – nothing under the skin, no plywood? How thick is aluminum then – 1/16″? KZ didn't post cut-away for Classic. Page for their longer "just Sportsmen" shows undisclosed roof material (rubber, I'm afraid), then 3/8″ plywood, then rafters and interior vinyl panels. "Power regulator" is a solar controller, right?
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1:16 pm
September 8, 2011
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bojewy
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Alm said:
bojewy said:
…I assumed there was a sheet of some kind of material underneath the aluminum skin of the roof. There is not.
So pardon me going straight for cojones – nothing under the skin, no plywood? How thick is aluminum then – 1/16″? KZ didn't post cut-away for Classic. Page for their longer "just Sportsmen" shows undisclosed roof material (rubber, I'm afraid), then 3/8″ plywood, then rafters and interior vinyl panels. "Power regulator" is a solar controller, right?
When I informed KZ prior to requesting the roof print, that I had been on the roof installing vent covers, they were surprised. That is when I was informed that there was no sheeting under the aluminum skin. Not sure on the thickness. I am not sure what is underneath. Insulation I suppose.
Go Power is the name of the regulator. It does control the voltage/amps to the battery.
 
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6:18 pm
September 9, 2011
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Mike Magee
| | near Tulsa OK | |
| Member | posts 204 |
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Yeah, that aluminum is pretty thin. I try not to think about it too much.  But then I remind myself that my cargo trailer has just aluminum on the roof too… I can see it from inside… and after somethin like 6 years and 120,000 miles of use the cargo trailer's roof seems fine (although the vent lid decayed from UV this summer, that had to be replaced).
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2008 Toyota Highlander – 2011 Escape E14RB
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9:07 pm
September 10, 2011
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Alm
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Thanks guys. I guess if the factory says there is no backing and roof isn't walk-able, then there is no backing indeed – I mean, between rafters and aluminum.
Yes, regulator is another name for controller. Looks nice. Cheaper gizmos don't have LCD displays, only blinking LED indicators. Does it auto-disconnect the load if voltage drops, say, below 11.5V?
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3:53 pm
September 11, 2011
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bojewy
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| Member | posts 27 |
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Does it auto-disconnect the load if voltage drops, say, below 11.5V?
This reg gives a warning at voltage under 12VDC, but does not power down until 6 VDC.
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11:02 am
October 3, 2011
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Suzy-Q
| | Oklahoma | |
| Member | posts 54 |
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We have a 14-RK with the same type of roof.
When I was making plans to install a solar panel on the roof, I removed one of the ceiling lights to see what was above. After pushing the insulation aside I was able to see the metal roof sheeting. There is nothing for support other than the cross framing supports. I did get a drawing from KZ.
I decided to construct a mounting frame from 1-inch square aliminum tubing and span the entire roof crosswise. The tubing will be fastened at each end with lag screws along the same line of screws that hold down the roof sheeting. In the picture with the lag screw, I have not yet drilled the pilot holes in the tubing. The solar panel is a 130W and the entire assembly weighs only 24lbs. The panel will be positioned at the rear right of the roof. The long section of the tubing will span the bathroom roof vent.
I have painted the roof white with elastomeric type roof paint. It is noon right now, 80 degrees, and the roof is cool to the touch.
HTH;
John
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