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2:36 pm March 30, 2011
| jbuff
| | Texas | |
| Member | posts 8 |
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The counter top above the norcold frig gets hot especially towards the left rear. Is this normal? I am also experiencingcooling issues . 55 to 60 degrees in the main box is about as cool as it gets. The freezer seems to be working well. I have tried moving the thermistor, dosen't seem to do much one way or the other. We are new owners of a 14RB. Two good outings so far, lots of fun!
Any thoughts on the cooling issue's is appreciated. thanks, jbuff
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4:45 pm March 30, 2011
| pfidahospud
| | Post Falls, Idaho | |
| Member | posts 107 |
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Sounds like a warranty return to the dealer…I have no clue about such things, but my fridge works just fine, and I've never noticed a warm countertop. I'm assuming the trailer is new and you've had it for a fairly short time? Also, just wondering, is this occuring when you're using either gas or 110v AC? Either way I'd quit using it until a qualified professional looked at it. Sounds like a fire hazard.
Stephen
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Tow-er: 2010 RAV4 3.5L 269 hp V6 with Tow Pkg ~ Tow-ee: 2011 Sportsmen Classic 14RB ~ Director: The wife
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5:56 pm March 30, 2011
| jbuff
| | Texas | |
| Member | posts 8 |
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Thanks for the reply Stephen. I have only used gas to power the fridge while traveling. At the campsite and at home I plug into shore shore power so I haven't noticed the counter top heating up using gas. The fridge has been runniing on electricity now for eight hours and the counter above the fridge is hot to the touch. Not hot enough to burn maybe a better description would be vary warm to the touch. In any case I'm thinking your right. I should get this checked by a service tech. I' m wondering if, as another poster pointed out, their is no insulation around the fridge perhaps allowing heat to penetrate through the counter top. Again, thanks for your reply
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6:45 pm March 30, 2011
| sandersmr
| | Texas | |
| Member | posts 338 |
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I have noticed a slight warming above the refrigerator but nothing I have been concerned about. But I will check tomorrow as I begin to cool my fridge down for the weekend.
If I understand correctly, the cooling gas is ammonia and will go through a vaporization/condensation just like Freon will do in your house A/C. The condensation is what causes the heat. Vaporization causes cooling. Sounds like you aren't getting effective transfer somehow.
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2010 16BH towed by 2002 F-150 Super Crew 4.6L V8
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7:58 pm March 30, 2011
| Steve
| | San Antonio, TX | |
| Moderator
| posts 193 |
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Post edited 2:59 am – March 31, 2011 by Steve
That doesn't sound normal so get it looked at ASAP. I've had several outtings with mine and haven't encountered any such problem to date.
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http://haven106.blogspot.com
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10:00 pm March 30, 2011
| Mike Magee
| | near Tulsa OK | |
| Member | posts 204 |
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I'm looking forward to seeing how my fridge acts… when it works. The dealer called today; they figured out it was a bad thermostat and they ordered one. Maybe I should write and tell them to check it with a thermometer before I come pick it up.
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2008 Toyota Highlander – 2011 Escape E14RB
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5:48 pm March 31, 2011
| jbuff
| | Texas | |
| Member | posts 8 |
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thanks for all of your responses to my fridge issues. I did another test : plugged into ac at 10 am the 30th, 24 hrs latter this morning the temp in the fridge was 28 degrees, outside temp 58. We had a cold front pass through yesterday evening, the fridge counter top was slightly warm. By 3:30 pm the fridge temp rose to 48, the outside temp was 72 degrees and the rear of the counter top above the fridge was hot to the touch again. I live in Texas close to Galveston bay, I'm not encouraged I will be seeing cool refrigerator temperatures in June when it's 93 degrees and 96% humidity. I will be calling for a service appointment tomorrow. thanks again for your replies. John
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8:08 pm March 31, 2011
| sandersmr
| | Texas | |
| Member | posts 338 |
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I just checked my refrigerator. It's been on most of the day on shore power. The counter above the fridge – back left counter was slightly warmer than the rest. I don't have a thermometer in my fridge but I keep the thermostat at slightly less than 3.
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2010 16BH towed by 2002 F-150 Super Crew 4.6L V8
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8:10 pm March 31, 2011
| sandersmr
| | Texas | |
| Member | posts 338 |
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Oh and John, I live fairly close to you and last September, my fridge actually got too cold. It took us a very short time to realize we did not need to have the thermostat on 5
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2010 16BH towed by 2002 F-150 Super Crew 4.6L V8
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5:02 am April 13, 2011
| jbuff
| | Texas | |
| Member | posts 8 |
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Follow up to original post 3-30-2011: Refrigerator Issues Revisited
I called Norcold 3-31-2011 the representative said their should not be any heat transfer between the fridge and the cabinetry, advised to call dealer for service. Dropped trailer off at dealer Monday 4-3, Picked it up yesterday. The dealer pulled the fridge out and built half cabinet between fridge and counter top and insulated it with R-13 insulation. They also trimmed and repositioned the metal vent shield that was blocking the top of the vent not allowing heat to be vented to the outside.
The fridge is now cooling and working properly, no heat felt at the counter top and fridge cooling to 30 degrees on propane and shore power. I still need to verify that but I feel the dealer did their job. They kept it several days after the repair to make sure everything was working properly. Hope this helps anyone experiancing similar problems. Happy Trails, jbuff
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8:11 am April 13, 2011
| Teaspoon
| | Strawberry Plains, TN | |
| Moderator
| posts 246 |
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I am really glad you got the problem taken care of and are now alot safer. Im surprized that your dealer had to do such a extensive modification for it to work properly and safely, seems to me this is a design flaw of KZ's that should be rectified with a recall . Do you know if KZ was notified of this repair and the potential for unsafe operation as the design is now? I do wish a representive of KZ would occassionally monitor this site because they could really get a idea of what improvements they can make thur our creative modifications, repairs and general opinion of their products.
Teaspoon
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2010 Sportsmen Classic 14RK 2006 Nissan Titan V8 5.7
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8:28 am April 13, 2011
| sandersmr
| | Texas | |
| Member | posts 338 |
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John was that Terry Vaughn that did the work? They've done pretty well by me so far as service goes so far.
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2010 16BH towed by 2002 F-150 Super Crew 4.6L V8
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1:48 pm April 13, 2011
| jbuff
| | Texas | |
| Member | posts 8 |
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I am not sure if the dealer contacted KZ. I am guessing they will. They most likely will have to send in a warranty report to KZ and detail the work that was done. Yes, Terry Vaughn is my dealer. David is a knowledgeable mechanic who did the work and the service manager seems to go out of his way to satisfy his customers. No complaints. I am glad that I decided to purchase from Terry Vaughn. My other choice was the Starcraft AR-1 at a dealer in Whaler. Glad I don't have to drive that far for service.
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7:00 pm April 13, 2011
| Mike Magee
| | near Tulsa OK | |
| Member | posts 204 |
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Seems like the ventilation problem was the real culprit. I doubt the insulation was strictly necessary but it could help the fridge stay cooler longer. I wouldn't say a design flaw, rather it's probably incorrect installation of the vent shield… or the shield wasn't made quite right and the installer didn't catch it. Built on a Friday afternoon, perhaps?
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2008 Toyota Highlander – 2011 Escape E14RB
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2:57 pm April 23, 2011
| Sportsman Matt
| | Central MA | |
| Moderator
| posts 95 |
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Sounds very similar to my situation when I received my 19BH. The problem was three parts.
First was the fact that KZ uses the same cabinet space for both the 110VAC only and the Dual Mode LP/AC Refrigerators. Downfall to this is that if you read the instructions for the install on the Dual Mode Refrigerators, they require insulation and little clearance on the sides and top, with plenty of venting, which the 110V electric only models don't need. The 110V Electric models are larger and so when they install the dual mode refrigerators, KZ just puts spacers in to prevent the refrigerator from appearing to sit in a hole, like most RV manufacturer's do.
Second was the ventilation, the sheet metal baffle to deflect the heat out the upper side vent is not the best in the world, and often needs a little additional material to make it work satisfactory. Add in the Vents are usually 6″-9″ narrower than the refrigerator cooling pack on the back of the refrigerator unit itself, less area to vent out often causes heat build up.
Third is the Thermistor. This is a touchy subject, as you should be able to move it up and down on the fin it was installed in originally. Mine was on the wrong fin. By moving it one fin over to the left, made all the difference in the world. Biggest thing with the thermistor is that moving it may be the cure, or replacing it. It really depends on how well the thermostor was made and how far it needs to move from the original position. Rule of thumb with the thermistor, left and up to make it colder, right and down to make it warmer. Also mark with a Sharpie where the thermistor was before you move it incase you need to move it back.
I'm glad you had time to take it to the dealer to work on it, I wasn't as fortunate, as I was in the middle of several camping trips, so I suffered through trial and error and several phone calls to Norcold before I fixed it.
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4:06 pm April 23, 2011
| jbuff
| | Texas | |
| Member | posts 8 |
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Matt, is the thermistor the two spring clips holding a wire next to the fin? Moving the clips and the wire up and down the fin or moving the clips and wire left or right to another fin will cause cooling or warming, is that correct? What fin is the right fin to start with? I believe mine is set up on the third fin from the right. Thanks, for the good explanation in your post it explained my situation perfectly. The dealer solution to the heat shield was to bend it back allowing heat to vent out instead of in the cabinetry. My frig is now holding its teperature in the mid 30 degrees on both shore power and propane. Thanks, jbuff
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8:35 am April 25, 2011
| Sportsman Matt
| | Central MA | |
| Moderator
| posts 95 |
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jbuff, the thermistor is the spring clip with the wires attached, the end of the wire is the actual thermistor which is slid into the clip and makes contact with the fin. Moving it up makes the unit get cooler, moving it down makes it warmer, Moving it to the left makes it cooler, to the right warmer. As to which one, that depends on the fridge and the temps involved. Also I added the Fridge Cube, a battery operated circulation fan, and found that you can't fill the fridge like you do at home. Your house fridge has a cooling system which has a fan to push cold air into the box when it gets warm, but an RV refrigerator is like a cooler with a solid state block of ice.
here's a link to my original post
http://www.sportsmenclassicclu…..ng-issues/
So here's the rules of the fridge….
1) check temp
2) don't overfill
3) Fridge Fan will help by circulating air in fridge
4) Do NOT leave door open like fridge at home, open for very brief moments and not often.
One other note: I used to do on-road service calls for a local RV dealer about 6 years ago, amazing what you remember and what you forget.
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9:04 am July 9, 2011
| kayaknut
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| Member | posts 376 |
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Post edited 2:38 am – January 14, 2012 by kayaknut
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7:12 am July 10, 2011
| bratgirl53
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| Member | posts 31 |
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Went camping this July 4th weekend. Temps here in Texas were well over 100 degrees every day we were there. We did not fire up the fridge before we left. We arrived at the campsite mid-morning and turned on the fridge. We did not turn on the air conditioner as we immediately went on to our activities. When we came back to the campsite around 2:00 p.m. I noticed the fridge was not very cool and the counter above it was pretty warm. We turned on the air conditioner at that time. For the remainder of our stay, the countertop stayed cool. But even with the fridge turned to 8, I don't think the fridge really ever got too cold. I noticed this problem on our last few trips and thought it was because we always put so much food in there, so this time I was careful not to overload it. Although the food was cold to the touch, the inside temps stayed around 45-50 degrees. I think the outside temps do have something to do with it. So does overloading it. But I am still concerned that something may be wrong with our unit. We did alot of camping in the winter and didn't notice a problem with the fridge at all, so maybe the hot temps do have something to do with it. I thought about keeping the inside temp of the camper really cold to see if that has an effect on the fridge, but I really don't like to be that cold. I may try that on our next outing, tho. I'll keep everyone posted.
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8:17 am July 12, 2011
| DougB
| | Charlotte, NC | |
| Member | posts 31 |
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I trouble with mine not staying cold when running on electric. Sometimes it seemed to work and other times it didn't. Running on gas it was fine. We also had a small table lamp that was plugged into the outlet under the dinette bench seat and suddenly it stopped working one day. It turns out the fridge and the outlet are on the same circuit which I discovered was not securely connected to the power panel. Once that was fixed the fridge works very well and freezes food if set on 5 (max on mine).
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