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Post edited 4:25 am – May 12, 2011 by Sportsman Matt

From the factory they do not install a bypass. As far as sanitizing, you need to keep the hot water lines closed off and then pressurize the system, if the hot Water Tank is empty, it will trap air in the system and prevent the solution form getting into the hot water lines. Downfall is that you can't sanitize the hot water side of the system. Also any air leaks in the hot water system (cracked faucets) will only allow the air to escape and let the solution fill up in the hot water tank (which is what you don't want)

Below I have listed the options for winterizing with and without the bypass, maybe this will help with the decision.

First is drain the freshwater system including the Hot Water Tank using compressed air, then put the drain for the hot water heater back in and pressurize the system with air and blow out the hot water lines. Then add RV Antifreeze to the cold water side only, and then blow it all out again.

Second is install a hot water heater bypass. To do this you will need a hot Water bypass kit,  and Teflon Tape. When I did mine, I opted to replace the plastic couplings from the bypass kit with solid brass couplings, the plastic tend to deteriorate over time with the heat from the tank (translate this into lwater leaks)

Now you can install it yourself, with 2 large adjustable wrenches, or have a dealer install it for you. I would stress unless you have worked with plumbing and pipe threads before, have the dealer install it for you. takes about 1/2 hour to an hour to install and test, but well worth it.

Good luck

Post edited 6:16 pm – May 12, 2011 by Sportsman Matt

Not a problem Kartsy,

First the hot water tank is aluminum with an anode rod, which deteriorates with certain minerals and chemicals in the water. So often the Hot Water tank is bypassed when cleaning the water system, with the exception of contaminated water, which everything must be cleansed. Downfall to cleaning the Hot Water heater when doing a system cleaning is you must use an extra 6 gallons of treated water to fill the hot water tank. most people fill the tank and let the tank boil the water to cleanse it out (this is a whole different topic all together)

When you open the outside cover to the Hot Water Heater, you will see a rusty steel plug. that's the drain to the Hot Water Heater, requires a 1 1/6″ or 1 1/8″ socket on an extension and a breaker bar or ratchet wrench to remove.

As for compressed air, you would use an adapter that connects the air line from your compressor to the city water fill of the trailer.

Words of caution.

1) Open faucets to relieve pressure from water system before removing hot water heater plug.

2) Close all faucets before applying air pressure to system.

3) Stand clear of Hot Water heater drain when applying air pressure or you will get soaked.

4) Do not apply more than 60 PSI to the water system or else you risk rupturing a line or breaking a fitting.

Biggest thing is look at the Winterizing thread pinned to the top of this forum, this will give you an idea of what to look for.

I'll be posting pictures of how to winterize this fall (September)